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What seems to be over-looked in many engine builds is simply the fact you'll almost always DEEPLY regret jumping into the engine build with both feet and waving your check book as you sink ever deeper into piles of parts receipts and machine shop bills, rather than stepping back with a legal pad, and a calculator and listing in minute detail exactly what you want to accomplish, and taking the time and effort too list and check out in detail what each machine shop procedure costs, why its required and how much each components costs, what your options are and how each component will add too or benefit the completed combo (or in some cases cause you time and grief) Theres at least a few hours of very worth while, and quite useful reading in this thread and links that will prevent you wasting time and money, keep in mind the sub links contain a huge wealth of additional info youll need 035-.039 hole it will provide a bit extra lubrication without causing a problem with your oil pressure, just be aware of that drill size, basically a 1/32"-#72 drill, so use a drill press and take your time those bits are easy to break 035 drill so it sprays oil on the rear of the timing chain gear and chain (1)drill the front pass side lifter gallery oil passage plug with a. Obviously use of a high quality synthetic oil that has a higher heat tolerance and that tends to break down slower and a decent quality oil filter are the first steps, and having a decent 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and the correct bearings will help a great deal, Ive generally preferred to use CLEVITE (H) style bearings as Ive found they work well in most high stress applications REMEMBER the object or goal in building and maintaining the lubrication system is too maintain a 100% dependable pressurized cooling flow of lubricant to the bearings, rockers,valves etc.